Monday 16 June 2008

La Crescent et La Crosse

Whilst the World agonises about a clash of civilisations, the Christian and Islamic worlds should take a leaf out the cities of La Crosse and La Crescent's book.
These two cities had a huge barrier between them. A river. And not just any river. It's not the daddy of all rivers but it's close. When it's not vying with the Missouri for the title of the U.S.' longest rivers. It drains the 3rd largest land area on the planet. This is the Mississippi river and it plays a starring role in 'The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn'.
The two relevant cities successfully built a bridge between them over which people cross daily. This interconnectedness has prevented war from breaking out between these two cities ever since the bridge was built.
Crossing the Mississippi is a surprisingly elevating experience. It's not so big that it overcomes you although, upon entering the road that traverses it at La Crescent, you're informed that La Crosse is 3 miles away, but you do feel a sense of moment. This is the Mississippi flowing beneath your feet and there aren't many rivers that the whole world is familiar with. Once at La Crosse, if you're sensible, you'll start heading South and join The Great River Road. This road follows the course of the river as far as Prairie du Chien. This means that, if you're cycling and choose to spend a couple of nights while you're at it, you'll spend 60 odd hours on a journey of 50 miles. It'll be worth every second.
The Great River Road continues past La Crosse but no longer parallels the river, so you may choose to head inland. The next great aquatic barrier is Lake Michigan. Before you get there you have a great deal of Southern Wisconsin and Northern Illinois to cross. If it's anything like the road between Lancaster and Platteville, it'll be hugely enjoyable. For the most part this road follows a ridgeline . The highest ridge for some way. You'll feel a little precarious as the verdant farmland either side of you slopes away and then up again to the next ridge. The trees clump around the hollows, sucked towards the many riverbanks as if by a Black Hole. These engorged creeks, streams, brooks and rivers all career headlong towards the majestic Mississippi, all the while watering this emerald vista.
Freshly painted farmsteads compete for attention as the steel domed farm buildings, glinting in the sun, first draw then dazzle the unwary eye. Little specks of black, white and rust alert the viewer to the inevitable cattle. This is Wisconsin, after all. It will all feel oddly familiar and homey, even to the urbanites amongst us. It will make you feel at peace with the world. Unlike the Crescent and the Cross.

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